Style Stories: History of the Hermes Birkin and Kelly Bag

BY Kaleigh Brown | 02/08/2025

The origins of the Hermes Birkin

The Hermes Birkin bag is one of the most iconic luxury handbags in the world, known for its timeless design, exquisite craftsmanship, and exclusivity. The story of the Birkin began in 1983 when British actress Jane Birkin found herself seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, the then - chief executive of Hermes, on a flight. As they conversed, Birkin expressed her need for a practical yet stylish bag. Inspired by her comments, Dumas sketched the design on an airplane sickness bag, and the Birkin bag was born. 

The History of the Hermes Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag predates the Birkin and carries its own rich history. Originally designed in the 1930s by Robert Dumas, the bag was initially called "Sac a Depeches". It gained its iconic status in 1956 when actress Grace Kelly used it to shield her baby bump from the paparazzi, leading to its renaming as the Kelly bag. Known for its structured silhouette and elegant design, the Kelly bag remains a symbol of sophistication and grace. 

Craftsmanship and Artistry

Both the Birkin and Kelly bags are meticulously handcrafted by skilled artisans in Hermes workshops, primarily located in France. Each bag is made from start to finish by a single artisan, a process that can take up to 18 hours or more depending on the complexity. The artisans undergo years of training to master the techniques required to create these masterpieces. 

 

Hermes  bags are crafted from the finest materials, including a variety of leathers such as Togo, Clemence, and Epsom, as well as exotic skins like crocodile and ostrich. The hardware, often made of precious metals like palladium or gold, is carefully fitted and polished to perfection. Every stitch is hand-sewn using Hermes signature saddle stitching, ensuring durability and beauty. 

Types of Leathers Used by Hermes

Hermes is renowned for its use of wide variety of leathers, each offering unique characteristics and appeal. Here are some of the most popular leathers used in crafting Birkin and Kelly bags:

Togo: This leather is known for its slightly pebbled texture and soft feel, It is highly durable and resistance to scratches, making it popular choice for everyday use. 

 

Clemence: Similar to Togo, Clemence leather is made from baby bull calfskin. It has slightly larger grain and a slouchier appearance, offering a relaxed and casual vibe. 

 

Epsom: Epsom leather is embossed, giving it a more rigid and structured feel. It is lightweight scratch-resistant, and holds its shape well, making it ideal for structured bags like the Sellier Kelly. 

 

Box Calf:This smooth, glossy leather is one of the oldest types used by Hermes. It has a timeless elegance but is more prone to scratches, which can develop a beautiful patina over time. 

 

Barenia: Originally used for saddles, Barenia leather is smooth and supple. It is known for its rich color and the way it develops a patina, becoming more beautiful with age. 

 

Swift: Swift leather is soft and smooth with a fine grain. It absorbs dye well, resulting in vibrant colors. While it is less scratch - resistant, minor marks can often be buffed out. 

 

Chevre Mysore: This goatskin leather is prized for its lightweight and durable qualities. It has a fine grain with a slight sheen and is resistant to scratches, making it an excellent choice for both everyday and special occasion bags. 

 

Evercolor: Evercolor leather is known for its smooth texture and vibrant hues. It is treated to be more resilient and resistant to scratches, offering a balance of beauty and practicality. 

 

Exotic Skins: Hermes also uses exotic skins such as crocodile, alligator, ostrich, and lizard. Each exotic skin offers a distinctive texture and luxurious appeal. Crocodile and alligator bags are often finished with a glossy sheen, while ostrich leather is recognizable by its unique quill bumps. 

 

Conclusion

The Hermes Birkin and Kelly bags are more than just luxury accessories; they are testament to the brand's commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and timeless design. Whether you prefer the structured elegance of the Sellier or the relaxed sophistication of the Retourne, each bag tells a unique story of artistry and heritage. Investing in a Birkin or Kelly bag means owning a piece of fashion history, crafted with unparalleled skill and care. 

 

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